Part Ⅰ An Introduction to Textiles／纺织入门 1
Chapter 1 Introduction／介绍 1
1.1 ASTM Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles/ASTM纺织标准术语 1
1.2 Fiber history／纤维历史 9
1.2.1 Natural fibers／天然纤维 9
1.2.2 Man-made fibers／化学纤维 10
Questions／思考题 13
Part Ⅱ Textile Fibers／纺织纤维 15
Chapter 2 Natural Cellulosic Fibers／天然纤维素纤维 15
2.1 Cotton／棉 16
2.1.1 Nature of cotton／棉花的种类 16
2.1.2 Classification／分类 17
2.1.3 Growth and structure of cotton／棉纤维的生长与结构 17
2.1.4 Maturity／成熟度 19
2.1.5 Cotton properties／棉纤维的性能 21
2.1.6 Cotton classification／棉花分级 22
2.2 Bast fibers／韧皮纤维 23
2.2.1 Flax(linen)／亚麻，亚麻织物 24
2.2.2 Ramie／苎麻 26
2.2.3 Hemp／汉麻 27
2.2.4 Jute／黄麻 27
Questions／思考题 28
Chapter 3 Natural Protein Fibers／天然蛋白质纤维 29
3.1 Wool／绵羊毛 29
3.1.1 Wool production and history／羊毛生产和历史 29
3.1.2 Wool grading／羊毛分级 30
3.1.3 Wool structure／羊毛结构 30
3.1.4 Wool properties／羊毛性能 31
3.2 Specialty animal fibers／特种动物毛 34
3.3 Silk／丝 35
Questions／思考题 37
Chapter 4 Man-made Fibers／化学纤维 38
4.1 Manufacturing processing of fiber／纤维生产工艺 38
4.1.1 Wet spinning／湿法纺丝 39
4.1.2 Dry spinning／干法纺丝 39
4.1.3 Melt spinning／熔体法纺丝 39
4.1.4 Gel spinning／凝胶纺丝 40
4.2 Regenerated fibers／再生纤维 40
4.2.1 Acetate／醋酯纤维 40
4.2.2 Triacetate／三醋酯纤维 42
4.2.3 Viscose fibers／粘胶纤维 42
4.3 Synthetic fibers／合成纤维 43
4.3.1 Acrylic／腈纶 43
4.3.2 Modacrylic／改性腈纶 44
4.3.3 Nylon／锦纶 44
4.3.4 Polyester／涤纶 45
4.3.5 PBI／聚苯并咪唑纤维 46
4.3.6 Vinal／聚乙烯醇纤维 46
4.3.7 Olefin／聚烯烃纤维 46
4.3.8 Aramid／芳纶 47
4.3.9 Lycra／莱卡 47
4.4 Other man-made fibers／其他化学纤维 49
4.4.1 Glass／玻璃纤维 49
4.4.2 Metallic／金属纤维 50
Questions／思考题 50
Chapter 5 New Fibers／新型纤维 51
5.1 Carbon fibers／碳纤维 51
5.2 Fluorocarbon／氟碳纤维 51
5.3 Lyocell fibers(Tencel)／莱塞尔纤维 51
5.4 High-wet-modulus fibers／高湿模量纤维 52
5.4.1 Modal fibers／莫代尔纤维 52
5.4.2 Richcel／丽赛纤维 53
5.5 Soybean protein composite fibers／大豆蛋白复合纤维 53
5.6 PLA fiber／聚左旋乳酸纤维 54
5.7 Heterogenous fibers／复合纤维 54
5.7.1 Bicomponent or multicomponent／双组分或多组分 55
5.7.2 Biconstituent or multiconstituent／双成分或多成分 56
5.7.3 Matrix or matrix-fibril／基质型纤维 56
5.8 Differential fibers／差别化纤维 57
5.9 Functional fibers／功能性纤维 57
5.10 High performance fibers／高性能纤维 57
Questions／思考题 57
Chapter 6 The Property of Absorbing Moisture／吸湿性 58
6.1 Orientation and crystallization／取向与结晶 58
6.2 Moisture sorption／吸湿性 58
6.2.1 Regain and moisture content／回潮率与含水率 58
6.2.2 Relation between regain and relative humidity／回潮率与相对湿度的关系 58
6.2.3 Comparison of various materials／不同材料吸湿性的对比 59
6.2.4 Theories of moisture sorption／吸湿理论 61
Questions／思考题 63
Chapter 7 Other Physicai Properties of Textile Fibers／纤维的其他物理性能 64
7.1 Electronic properties／电学性能 64
7.1.1 Definitions／定义 64
7.2 Optical properties／光学性能 65
7.3 Thermal properties／热学性能 66
7.3.1 Thermal parameters／热力学参数 66
7.3.2 Acomparison of temperature effects／温度效应比较 66
Questions／思考题 66
Part Ⅲ Textile Yarns／纺织纱线 67
Chapter 8 Yarn Processing and Construction／纱线制造与结构 67
8.1 Spun yarns／短纤纱 68
8.2 Filament yarns／长丝纱 68
8.3 Methods of yarn processing／纺纱方法 68
8.3.1 Ring-spinning／环锭纺 69
8.3.2 New methods of yarn processing／新型纺纱方法 69
8.4 Single and ply yarns／单纱和股线 72
8.5 Special types of yarn／特种纱线 73
8.5.1 Fancy yarns／花式纱 73
8.5.2 Stretch yarns／弹力纱 74
8.5.3 Textured yarns／变形纱线 74
8.6 Blends and mixtures yarns／纱线混纺与混用 75
Questions／思考题 76
Chapter 9 Yarn Properties／纱线性能 77
9.1 Yarn number／纱线细度 77
9.1.1 Denier system／旦数 77
9.1.2 Yarn count system／纱线英制支数 77
9.1.3 Tex system／线密度 78
9.1.4 Metric numbering system／公制支数 78
9.1.5 Conversion in different systems／不同系统之间的换算 78
9.2 Ply yarn counts and singles equivalent／股线支数与单纱支数 78
9.3 Yarn twist／纱线捻度 79
9.4 Yarn hairiness／纱线毛羽 80
9.4.1 Hairiness test method／毛羽测试方法 81
9.4.2 Factors affecfing hairiness／影响毛羽的因素 81
9.5 Yarn unevenness／纱线不匀 82
9.5.1 Test of yarn unevenness／纱线不匀的测试 82
9.5.2 Reasons for yarn unevenness／纱线不匀的原因 83
9.6 Classification of yarn quality／纱线质量分析 83
Questions／思考题 83
Part Ⅳ Textile Fabrics／织物 85
Chapter 10 Woven Fabrics／机织物 85
10.1 Making woven fabrics／织制机织物 85
10.1.1 The loom／织机 85
10.1.2 Loom type／织机类型 87
10.1.3 Loom motions／织机运动 87
10.1.4 Electronics in weaving／电子技术在织机中的应用 88
10.1.5 The selvage／布边 88
10.2 Warp yarns and filling yarns／经纱和纬纱 88
10.2.1 Identification／鉴别 89
10.3 Face and back／正面与反面 89
10.3.1 Reasons for differenee／存在差异的原因 90
10.3.2Caution／应用的要点 90
10.4 Top and bottom／顶端和底端 90
10.4.1 Reasons for difference／存在差异的原因 90
10.5 Weave floats／组织浮线 91
10.6 Basic weaves／基本组织 91
10.6.1 Plain weave／平纹组织 91
10.6.2 Twill weave／斜纹组织 92
10.6.3 Satin weave／缎纹组织 94
10.7 Fabric performance and characteristics／织物性能和参数 95
10.7.1 Fabric width／幅宽 95
10.7.2 Fabric weight／织物重量 95
10.7.3 Fabric thickness／织物厚度 96
10.7.4 Fabric density／织物密度 96
10.7.5 Fabric count／织物经纬密度 96
10.7.6 Fabric defects／织物疵点 96
Questions／思考题 96
Chapter 11 Knitted Fabrics／针织物 97
11.1 Making of knitted fabric／针织物形成 97
11.1.1 The forming ofknitted stitches／线圈的形成 97
11.1.2 Types of knitted stitches／线圈的种类 99
11.2 Weft knits／纬编针织物 100
11.2.1 Jersey knit fabric／纬平针织物 100
11.2.2 Rib knit fabric／罗纹针织物 101
11.2.3 Purl knit fabric／双反面针织物 102
11.2.4 Double knits／双面针织物 103
11.2.5 Full-fashioned knits／全成形针织物 103
11.3 Warp knits／经编针织物 104
11.3.1 Tricot fabrics／特里科经编针织物 104
11.3.2 Raschel fabrics／拉舍尔经编针织物 105
11.4 Performance and characteristics／性能和参数 105
Questions／思考题 106
Chapter 12 Nonwoven Fabrics／非织造布 107
12.1 Introduction／导论 107
12.2 Manufacturing methods／生产方法 108
12.2.1 Dry laid system／干法成网 108
12.2.2 Wet laid system／湿法成网 108
12.2.3 Polymer laid system／聚合物挤压法 108
12.3 Various nonwovens／各种非织造布 108
12.3.1 Needle punched nonwovens／针刺法非织造布 108
12.3.2 Bonded web nonwovens／黏合法非织造布 109
12.3.3 Spunlaced nonwovens／射流喷网法非织造布 110
12.3.4 Spunbonded nonwovens／纺粘法非织造布 111
12.3.5 Melt-blown nonwovens／熔喷法非织造布 112
Questions／思考题 112
PartⅤ Textile Testing／纺织品测试 113
Chapter 13 General Test Methods／常规测试方法 113
13.1 General fiber tests／纤维常规测试 113
13.1.1 Fiber identification／纤维鉴别 113
13.1.2 Fiber length／纤维长度 117
13.1.3 Fiber fineness or linear density／纤维细度或线密度 118
13.1.4 Cross-sectional shape／截面形状 118
13.1.5 Crimp／卷曲 118
13.1.6 Regain／回潮率 119
13.1.7 Mechanical properties／机械性能 119
13.1.8 Chemical characteristics／化学性能 119
13.1.9 Surface characteristics／表面性能 119
13.1.10 Density and specific gravity／密度和相对密度 120
13.2 Special tests for natural fibers／天然纤维的测试 120
13.2.1 Tests for cotton／棉纤维测试 120
13.2.2 Tests for wool／毛纤维测试 122
13.3 Testing of tensile properties／拉伸性能测试 123
13.3.1 Description of tensile proprieties／拉伸性能的描述 124
13.3.2 Fiber and yarn tensile testing／纤维和纱线拉伸性能的测试 129
13.3.3 Fabric tensile testing／织物拉伸性能测试方法 130
Questions／思考题 132
Chapter 14 Fabric Abrasion and Pilling／织物磨损与起球 133
14.1 Types of abrasion／磨损的类型 133
14.1.1 Abrasion between fabrics／织物间的磨损 133
14.1.2 Abrasion between fabric and a nontextile surface／织物与非纤维制品表面磨损 133
14.1.3 Abrasion within fabric／织物内部磨损 134
14.1.4 Abrasion by foreign materials within the fabric／与织物内部其他材料的磨损 134
14.2 Factors affecting fabric abrasion resistance／影响耐磨性能的因素 134
14.2.1 Fabric properties／织物性能 134
14.2.2 Other factors／其他因素 136
14.3 Abrasion testing／磨损测试 137
14.3.1 Visual comparison with an unabraded specimen／与未磨损样品视觉对比 137
14.3.2 Number of cycles to produce a hole／产生磨损破洞需要的摩擦圈数 137
14.3.3 Change in a physical property／物理性能的变化 137
14.3.4 Microscopic examination／显微镜观测 138
14.4 Aesthetics of abrasion and wear／穿着和磨损对美感的影响 138
14.4.1 Color changes caused by abrasion／磨损引起的颜色变化 138
14.4.2 Pilling／起球 139
Questions／思考题 140
Chapter 15 Fabric Hand and Drape／织物手感与悬垂 141
15.1 Fabric hand／织物手感 141
15.2 Fabric drape／织物悬垂 142
15.3 Measurement of hand and drape／手感与悬垂的评价 144
15.3.1 Subjective evaluation／主观评定法 144
15.3.2 Quantitative measurement／定量评定法 145
15.3.3 Kawabata evaluation system／KES评定法 146
Questions／思考题 146
Chapter 16 Fabric Colorfastness／织物染色牢度 147
16.1 Evaluation of color and colorfastness／颜色和染色牢度评定方法 147
16.2 Colorfastness tests／染色牢度测试 147
16.2.1 Colorfastness to crocking／耐摩擦色牢度 147
16.2.2 Colorfastness to laundering and bleaching／耐洗涤和耐漂白色牢 148
16.2.3 Colorfastness to drycleaning／耐干洗色牢度 149
16.2.4 Colorfastness to perspiration／耐汗渍色牢度 149
16.2.5 Colorfastness to water／耐水浸色牢度 149
16.2.6 Colorfastness to light／耐光照色牢度 150
16.2.7 Colorfastness to atmospheric contaminants／耐空气污染色牢度 151
Questions／思考题 151
Chapter 17 Fabric Flammability／织物可燃性 152
17.1 Flammability standards／可燃性标准 152
17.2 Properties affecting flammability／影响可燃性的因素 152
17.3 Flammability testing／可燃性测试 154
17.3.1 Forty-five degree angle test／45°燃烧测试法 154
17.3.2 Vertical flame tests／垂直燃烧测试法 155
17.3.3 Carpet testing／地毯测试 155
17.3.4 Cigarette tests／卷烟点燃测试 155
17.3.5 Other standard flammability tests／其他可燃性测试 156
Questions／思考题 156
Chapter 18 Comfort of Textiles／纺织品舒适性 157
18.1 Physical phenomena affecting thermal comfort／影响热舒适性能的物理现象 157
18.1.1 Heat transfer／热传递 157
18.1.2 Moisture transfer／湿传递 158
18.1.3 Water resistance／抗水性 158
18.1.4 Air transfer／透气性 159
18.1.5 Porosity and cover factor／多孔性和覆盖系数 159
18.1.6 Electrostatic propensity／静电 160
18.2 Evaluations of textile properties related to comfort／与舒适性相关的纺织品性能评价 160
18.2.1 Heat transfer／热传递 161
18.2.2 Moisture properties／湿传递性能 162
18.2.3 Air permeability／透气性 162
18.2.4 Porosity／孔隙率 163
18.2.5 Electrostatic tests／静电测试 163
Questions／思考题 163
Appendix／附录 164
AATCC:AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS／美国纺织化学家与染色家协会 164
ASTM:AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS／美国材料试验学会 167
Vocabulary／词汇表 172
References／参考文献 180