FOREWORD 4
HISTORIANS 5
Prehistory 7
Pre-Qin to Han Dynasty 10
Sui to Tang Dynasty 12
Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms 20
Song Dynasty 30
Yuan to Qing Dynasty 37
Historical Hotspots 44
NATURE LOVERS 51
Looking for Life 53
Tea Gardens 63
Top 10 Scenic Spots 67
Xixi Wetlands 78
Bamboo Forest 85
Qiantang River 86
Hiking Trails 90
PILGRIMS 93
Buddhism 95
Daoism 107
Hangzhou Churches 110
Phoenix Mosque 111
ENTREPRENEURS 113
Boomtown Basics 115
Legend of Alibaba 121
Jack Ma on Hangzhou 126
Doing Business 128
CULTURE VULTURES 137
Art Galleries 139
Poetry and Literati 144
Operas of Old 147
Take in a Show 154
FOODIES 157
Hangzhou Cuisine 159
Food with a Tale 164
Hangzhounese at Home 167
Market Dining 173
Hangzhou Giants 178
SHOPPERS 181
Silk Sense 183
City of Crafts 191
Tea Culture 195
Malls and Markets 200
PARTY PEOPLE 205
Grub and Chug 207
Live Music 210
Class Acts 211
Pub Lovers 212
Clubbing 214
FOR THE FAMILY 217
Parks and Museums 219
Road Trip 228
Making Hangzhou Home 232
MIND&BODY 237
Sports 239
Keeping Fit 243
Take It as Read 246
Traditional Chinese Medicine 248
APPENDIX 253
Know Central Hangzhou 253
Around Hangzhou 254