UNIT Ⅰ GENERAL KNOWLEDGE AND SIMPLE CONSTRUCTION／基本知识和简单组织 1
目录 1
Chapter One General Knowledge on Woven Fabrics／机织物的基本知识 2
1.1 Cloth formation on loom／机织物的形成 2
1.2 Fabric analysis／样品分析 4
1.3 Fabric representation／织物的表示方法 7
2.1 General characteristics／基本特征 18
2.2 Plain weaves／平纹组织 18
Chapter Two Elementary Weaves（Fundamental Weaves）／三原组织 18
2.3 Twill weaves／斜纹组织 20
2.4 Sateen/Satin weaves／缎纹组织 22
Chapter Three Derivatives of Elementary Weaves／变化组织 25
3.1 Plain weave derivatives／平纹变化组织 25
3.2 Twill weave derivatives／斜纹变化组织 29
3.3 Derivatives of satin/sateen weaves／缎纹变化组织 47
Chapter Four Combined Weaves／联合组织 50
4.1 Stripe and check weaves／条格组织 50
4.2 Crepe weaves／绉组织 55
4.3 Mock leno weaves／假纱罗组织 61
4.4 Huckaback weaves／浮松组织 64
4.5 Honeycomb weaves／蜂巢组织 65
4.6 Bedford cord and piqué／凸条组织 69
4.7 Distorted weave effects／网目组织 73
Chapter Five Colour and Weave Effects／色纱组织配合（配色模纹） 78
5.1 Construction of patterns from a given weave and colour repeats／根据已知组织图和色纱循环绘作配色模纹 78
5.3 Construction of weaves and colour repeats from a given pattern／已知配色模纹确定色纱排列和组织图 96
5.2 Construction of weaves from a given pattern and colour repeat／已知色纱循环和配色模纹绘作组织图 96
UNIT Ⅱ COMPOUND STRUCTURE／复杂组织 99
Chapter Six Backed Weaves／二重组织 100
6.1 Warp backed weaves／经二重组织 100
6.2 Weft backed weaves／纬二重组织 101
Chapter Seven Multi-ply Fabrics／多层织物 108
7.1 Double fabrics／双层组织织物 108
7.2 Stitching double fabrics／接结双层织物 111
7.3 Interchanging double cloth／表里换层织物 124
7.4 Tubular cloth／管状织物 126
7.5 Double width fabrics／双幅织物 128
7.6 Multi-layer weaves／多层组织 129
Chapter Eight Pile Fabrics／绒织物 135
8.1 Weft pile／纬起绒织物 135
8.2 Warp pile／经起绒织物 138
8.3 Terry pile／毛圈织物 142
9.1 The concept of gauze／纱的基本概念 149
9.2 The principles of gauze weave formation／纱的形成原理 149
Chapter Nine Gauze and Leno Weaves／纱罗组织 149
9.3 Gauze and leno weave examples／纱罗组织示例 152
Chapter Ten Jacquard Fabrics／纹织物 159
10.1 Elements of jacquard shedding／提花开口原理 159
10.2 Preparation for designing the jacquard fabrics／纹织物设计准备 161
10.3 Steps in construction of jacquard design／纹织物设计步骤 162
UNIT Ⅲ FABRIC DESIGN／织物设计 167
Chapter Eleven Fabric Geometry／织物的几何结构 168
11.1 Fabric geometry／织物的几何结构 168
11.2 Fabric cover and cover factor／紧度和紧度系数 177
Chapter Twelve Target Design and Materials Selection／产品定位设计与原料选择 182
12.1 Target design／定位设计 182
12.2 Material selection／原料选择 183
Chapter Thirteen Calculation and Selection of Varied Parameters／工艺参数的选择与计算 186
13.1 Selection of weaves／组织选择 186
13.2 Yarn linear density／线密度的确定 186
13.3 Fabric setting／织物密度 188
13.4 Crimp of yarn in woven fabric／织物缩率 189
13.5 Twist direction and the twill prominence／捻向与斜纹的明显性 190
13.6 Selvedges／布边 191
Chapter Fourteen Examples of Fabric Design／织物设计举例 193
14.1 Grey fabric design and calculation／坯布设计和计算 193
14.2 Example／举例 195
Appendix A Glossary of Fabrics／织物生词表 198
Appendix B Fabric Design Table／织物设计工艺表 210
Appendix C Parameters and Specifications of Some Grey Fabrics／部分坯织物规格和技术条件 211
References／参考文献 221