CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1
1.Subject matter of this study 1
2.Main developments in textile production and world trade in textiles 3
2.1.Some developments before 1900 3
2.2.Main developments since 1900 7
3.Textiles and theory: specification of the theoretical framework for this study 15
3.1.A study in international law 17
3.1.1.On the nature of international law 17
3.1.2.Theory of international law 19
3.1.2.1.General 19
3.1.2.2.The concept of a legal system as a tool for analysis 22
3.2.A study in international economic law 26
3.2.1.On the origins, development and functions of international economic law and international economic organizations 26
3.2.2.Theory of international economic law 32
3.2.2.1.Definitions of international economic law 32
3.2.2.2.VerLoren van Themaat's theory 36
4.Aims and structure of this study 37
CHAPTER 2 THE GATT: THE ORIGINAL LEGAL FRAMEWORK FOR WORLD TRADE IN TEXTILES 41
1.The roots of GATT 41
1.1.American initiatives 42
1.2.US-UK cooperation 44
1.3.Elaboration in practice of the American initiatives 46
1.4 The London and Geneva negotiations 47
1.5.The Havana Conference 49
2.The rules of GATT 51
2.1.GATT's objectives and basic rules of substantive law 51
2.2.Institutional characteristics 53
2.3.On the nature of GATT obligations: legalism and pragmatism 54
3.Article ⅩⅨ: contents, function and developments in practice during the 1950s 56
3.1.Safeguard clauses 56
3.2.Substantive requirements in Article ⅩⅨ 59
3.3.Procedural requirements in Article ⅩⅨ 61
3.4.Article ⅩⅨ: selective or non-discriminatory application? 61
3.5.Article ⅩⅨ in perspective 63
3.6.Practice and Article ⅩⅨ during the 1950s 64
3.6.1.Two relaxations of the Article ⅩⅨ-requirements 64
3.6.2.Application of Article ⅩⅨ during the 1950s 67
4.The market disruption discussion in GATT 68
4.1.Underlying developments 68
4.2.The GATT discussion on trade and less-developed countries 69
4.3.The 1959 GATT Ministerial Meeting 71
4.4.The concept of market disruption 72
4.5.The Secretariat study 73
4.6.Discussion on the Secretariat study and establishment of a working party 76
4.7.The first task of the working party and the market disruption Decision 78
4.8.The second task of the working party 80
5.Market disruption and Article ⅩⅨ 81
5.1.The market disruption Decision: a deviation from Article ⅩⅨ? 81
5.2.Dealing with market disruption through Article ⅩⅨ? 84
6.Concluding remarks 86
CHAPTER 3 THE COTTON TEXTILE ARRANGEMENTS 89
1.Introduction: the roots of the cotton textile arrangements 89
1.1.Trade and trade policy in textiles before 1960 89
1.1.1.Before the Second World War 89
1.1.2.After the Second World War 90
1.2.The July Conference and the 1961 Arrangements 98
1.2.1.Developments leading to the July Conference 98
1.2.2.The July Conference 102
1.2.3.The 1961 Arrangements 103
1.2.4.Discussion in the Council 104
1.2.5.First meeting of the Provisional Cotton Textiles Committee 105
1.2.6.Discussion in the CONTRACTING PARTIES and conclusion of the Long-Term Arrangement 106
1.3.Concluding remarks 107
2.Objectives of the cotton textile arrangements 109
3.Scope of operation of the cotton textile arrangements 110
3.1.Participating states 110
3.2.Scope ratione materiae 115
3.3.Scope of operation in time 116
4.Institutional characteristics of the cotton textile arrangements 117
5.Substantive rules of the cotton textile arrangements 120
5.1.The Short-Term Arrangement 120
5.2.The Long-Term Arrangement 122
6.Functioning of the cotton textile arrangements 127
6.1 Functioning of the ST A 128
6.2.Functioning of the LTA 129
6.2.1.LTA-Ⅰ (1962-1967) 129
6.2.1.1.Implementation of Article 2: liberalization 129
6.2.1.2.Implementation of Articles 3 and 4: new restrictions 130
6.2.1.3.Introduction of a new British textile import policy 130
6.2.1.4.Discussions on the future of the LTA 132
6.2.2.LTA-Ⅱ (1967-1970) 133
6.2.3.LTA-Ⅲ (1970-1973) 135
6.2.4.Concluding remarks on the implementation of Articles 2, 3 and 4 of the LTA 136
6.2.5.Specific issues 137
6.2.5.1.Market disruption 137
6.2.5.2.New suppliers 139
6.2.5.3.Adjustment measures 140
6.2.5.4.The Cotton Textiles Committee 141
7.Concluding remarks 142
CHAPTER 4 THE MULTI-FIBRE ARRANGEMENT: A PLAY ON DISCRIMINATION IN FOUR ACTS 145
1.Introduction 145
1.1.Act Ⅰ: The original MFA (MFA-Ⅰ) 145
1.2.Act Ⅱ: A derogation from a derogation (MFA-Ⅱ) 150
1.3.Act Ⅲ: Exit reasonable departures, enter new, specific departures (MFA-Ⅲ) 152
1.4.Act Ⅳ: Liberal intentions but restrictive results (MFA-Ⅳ) 153
2.Objectives of the MFA 157
2.1.Original objectives 157
2.2.Development of the objectives in time 159
3.Scope of operation of the MFA 159
3.1.Participating states 159
3.2.Scope ratione materiae 161
3.3.Scope of operation in time 162
4.Institutional characteristics of the MFA 163
4.1.Original institutional characteristics 163
4.2.Institutional developments 168
5.Substantive rules of the MFA 171
5.1.MFA-Ⅰ 171
5.2.MFA-Ⅱ 183
5.3.MFA-Ⅲ 185
5.4.MFA-Ⅳ 186
6.Functioning of the MFA 189
6.1.Functioning of the TSB 190
6.1.1.Supervision in international economic organizations 190
6.1.2.Dispute settlement in GATT 192
6.1.3.Supervisory powers of the TSB 194
6.1.4.Institutional developments in supervision by the TSB 197
a.Regarding the internal functioning of the TSB 197
b.The TSB and dispute settlement 198
c.The TSB and the review of existing and new restrictions 200
d.General institutional developments in supervision 204
6.1.5.Two case-studies 205
a.The TSB-EEC wrangle: review under assault 205
b.The dispute between the Maldives and the US: discord in the TSB 209
6.2.Functioning of MFA's substantive law 211
6.2.1.MFA-Ⅰ 212
6.2.2.MFA-Ⅱ 217
6.2.3.MFA-Ⅲ 221
6.2.4.MFA-Ⅳ 225
6.2.5.Positive discrimination? The implementation of Article 6 227
6.2.6.Adjustment? The implementation of Article 1.4 229
7.Concluding analysis 231
CHAPTER 5 THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE TEXTILE ARRANGEMENTS AND THE GATT 245
1.The textile arrangements and the GATT: explications and implications of a strained relationship 246
1.1.General 246
1.2.The formal and factual relationship of the textile arrangements with the GATT 248
1.3.Difficulties resulting from the inconsistencies between the textile arrangements and the General Agreement 251
1.4.Conflicting treaties in international law 255
1.5.A return to the General Agreement? 261
2.The application and circumvention of Article ⅩⅨ 263
2.1.Application of Article ⅩⅨ 264
2.1.1.Some figures 264
2.1.2.The panel report on Norway's selective safeguard action on imports of textiles 269
2.2.Circumvention of Article ⅩⅨ: Voluntary Export Restraints 272
2.2.1.Definition 272
2.2.2.The development of Voluntary Export Restraints 273
2.2.3.Some factors explaining Voluntary Export Restraints 275
2.2.4.Effects and drawbacks of Voluntary Export Restraints 276
2.2.5.The legal status of Voluntary Export Restraints under the General Agreement 279
2.2.6.The panel report on Japanese measures implementing the chips VER between the US and Japan 282
3.Lessons to GATT? 285
3.1.Unfinished negotiations 285
3.2.Lessons from the textile arrangements 288
3.2.1.Transparency 289
3.2.2.Coverage 289
3.2.3.Objective criteria for action 292
3.2.4.Temporary nature, degressivity and structural adjustment 294
3.2.5.Compensation and retaliation 295
3.2.6.Notification, consultation, multilateral surveillance and dispute settlement 295
3.2.7.Conclusion 296
CHAPTER 6 TEXTILES AND THEORY 299
Ⅰ.The textile regulation as a case-study in international law 299
1.Introduction 299
2.Hart's model 299
3.Application of Harfs model to the regulation of world trade in textiles 303
4.Conclusion 310
Ⅱ.The textile regulation as a case-study in international economic law 312
1.Introduction: the textile regulation and international economic law 312
2.VerLoren van Themaafs theory and the textile regulation 315
2.1.The first main conclusion in VerLoren van Themaafs study 316
2.1.1.Objectives and scope ratione materiae 317
2.1.2.Institutional characteristics 322
2.1.3.Substantive law characteristics 324
2.1.3.1.General 324
2.1.3.2.Classification of the substantive rules of the textile arrangements 326
2.1.3.3.Testing VerLoren van Themaat's conclusions on substantive law 331
2.1.3.4.Three basic principles: freedom, equality and solidarity 333
2.2.The second main conclusion in VerLoren van Themaat's study 335
2.3.The third main conclusion in VerLoren van Themaat's study 337
2.4.The fourth main conclusion in VerLoren van Themaat's study 338
2.5.Conclusion 339
Ⅲ.Synthesis and prospects 340
Bibliography 345
Abbreviations and definitions 361
Annexes 363
Index 401