Chapter 1 Fibre,Yarn and Fabric 1
1.1 Text:What is a fibre 1
Reading material:Fine structure of fibre 6
1.2 Text:Natural cellulosic fibres 6
Reading material:Degradation of cellulose 12
1.3 Text:Natural protein fibres 12
Reading material:Wool farming 17
1.4 Text:Regenerated fibres 17
Reading material:Tencel 22
1.5 Text:Synthetic fibres 23
Reading material:Fibre lustre 28
1.6 Text:Yarn and fabric 29
Reading material:Primary and secondary motions of loom 34
Chapter 2 Pre-treatment Processes of Textiles 36
2.1 Text:Preparations before wet pre-treatment 36
Reading material:Water and textile processing 41
2.2 Text:Desizing 41
Reading material:Size reclamation 46
2.3 Text:Scouring 47
Reading material:Special scouring processes 53
2.4 Text:Bleaching 53
Reading material:Surfactants 59
2.5 Text:Mercerizing 60
Reading material:Degumming of silk 65
2.6 Text:Heat setting 66
Reading material:Heat-setting and steam-setting of nylon 72
Chapter 3 Dyeing of Textiles 73
3.1 Text:Introduction to dyeing 73
Reading material:Dyeing equilibrium 78
3.2 Text:Classification of dyes 78
Reading material:Attributes of colour 83
3.3 Text:Dyeing machines 83
Reading material:Pad dyeing machine 88
3.4 Text:Dyeing of cellulose fabric 89
Reading material:Structure of cotton in relation to dyeing 94
3.5 Text:Dyeing of protein fabric 95
Reading material:Colour kitchens 99
3.6 Text:Dyeing of polyester fabric 100
Reading material:DyeCoo delivers sustainable textiles with waterless dyeing 105
3.7 Text:Dyeing of polyacrylic textiles 108
Reading material:Action of auxiliaries 113
Chapter 4 Printing of Textiles 115
4.1 Text:Introduction to printing 115
Reading material:Preparation of the fabric for printing 120
4.2 Text:Roller printing 121
Reading material:Ingredients of printing paste 125
4.3 Text:Screen printing 125
Reading material:Preparation of screen 130
4.4 Text:Transfer printing 131
Reading material:Other special printing techniques 136
4.5 Text:Direct printing with dyes 136
Reading material:Digital ink-jet printing 141
4.6 Text:Direct printing with pigments 142
Reading material:Designs 148
4.7 Text:Discharge and resist printing 148
Reading material:Getting digital with textiles printing 153
Chapter 5 Finishing of Textiles 155
5.1 Text:Introduction to finishing 155
Reading material:Shrinkage control for wool 159
5.2 Text:Mechanical finishes 159
Reading material:Sueding or emerising 164
5.3 Text:Application of resin for finishing 165
Reading material:Dimethyloldihydroxyethylene-urea 170
5.4 Text:Water proofing and water repellent finishes 170
Reading material:Weighting of silk 174
5.5 Text:Flame retardant finish 175
Reading material:Towards multifunctional surfaces using the plasma-induced graft-polymerization(PIGP)process:Flame and waterproof cotton textiles 179
5.6 Text:Other special finishes 191
Reading material:Enzyme finishing 195
Chapter 6 Textile Testing 197
6.1 Text:Introduction to textile testing 197
Reading material:Terms used in sampling 201
6.2 Text:Testing of pre-treated fabric 202
Reading material:Precision and accuracy 206
6.3 Text:Measurement of coloured fabric 206
Reading material:Use of the grey scales 211
6.4 Text:Measurement of finished fabric 211
Reading material:Systematic error and random error 215
Appendix 1 Standard operating procedures for garment merchandising 216
Appendix 2 Vocabulary 219
Appendix 3 Phrases and Expressions 228