Contents 1
Chapter 1 Fibre,Yarn and Fabric 1
1.1 Text:What is a fibre 1
Reading material:Fine structure of fibre 8
1.2 Text:Natural cellulosic fibres 8
Reading material:Degradation of cellulose 16
1.3 Text:Natural protein fibres 17
Reading material:Wool farming 23
1.4 Text:Regenerated fibres 24
Reading material:Tencel 31
1.5 Text:Synthetic fibres 32
Reading material:Fibre lustre 38
1.6 Text:Yarn and fabric 39
Reading material:Primary and secondary motions of loom 46
Chapter 2 Pre-treatment Processes of Textiles 48
2.1 Text:Preparations before wet pre-treatment 48
Reading material:Water and textile processing 53
2.2 Text:Desizing 54
Reading material:Size reclamation 60
2.3 Text:Scouring 61
Reading material:Special scouring processes 68
2.4 Text:Bleaching 68
Reading material:Surfactants 76
2.5 Text:Mercerizing 77
Reading material:Degumming of silk 83
2.6 Text:Heat setting 84
Reading material:Heat-setting and steam-setting ofnylon 91
Chapter 3 Dyeing of Textiles 93
3.1 Text:Introduction to dyeing 93
Reading material:Dyeing equilibrium 99
3.2 Text:Classification of dyes 100
Reading material:Choice of dyes 106
3.3 Text:Dyeing machines 107
Reading material:Winch dyeing machine 113
3.4 Text:Dyeing of cellulose fabric 114
Reading material:Structure of cotton in relation to dyeing 120
3.5 Text:Dyeing of protein fabric 121
Reading material:Attributes of colour 126
3.6 Text:Dyeing of polyester fabric 127
3.7 Text:Dyeing of polyacrylic textiles 133
Reading material:Colour matching in textile 133
Reading material:Action of auxiliaries 138
Chapter 4 Printing of Textiles 140
4.1 Text:Introduction to printing 140
Reading material:Preparation of the fabric for printing 146
4.2 Text:Roller printing 147
Reading material:Ingredients of printing paste 153
4.3 Text:Screen printing 153
Reading material:Preparation of screen 159
4.4 Text:Transfer printing 160
Reading material:Other special printing techniques 165
4.5 Text:Direct printing with dyes 166
Reading material:Thickener 172
4.6 Text:Direct printing with pigments 173
Reading material:Designs 180
4.7 Text:Discharge and resist printing 180
Reading material:Post-print processes 186
Chapter 5 Finishing of Textiles 188
5.1 Text:Introduction to finishing 188
Reading material:Shrinkage control for wool 193
5.2 Text:Mechanical finishes 194
Reading material:Sueding or emerising 200
5.3 Text:Application of resin for finishing 201
Reading material:Dimethyloldihydroxyethylene-urea 207
5.4 Text:Water proofing and water repellent finishes 207
Reading material:Weighting of silk 213
5.5 Text:Flame retardant finish 213
Reading material:Shiffon finish 219
5.6 Text:Other special finishes 219
Reading material:Enzyme finishing 226
6.1 Text:Introduction to textile testing 227
Chapter 6 Textile Testing 227
Reading material:Terms used in sampling 233
6.2 Text:Testing of pre-treated fabric 234
Reading material:Precision and accuracy 239
6.3 Text:Measurement of coloured fabric 240
Reading material:Use of the grey scales 246
6.4 Text:Measurement of finished fabric 246
Reading material:Systematic error and random error 252
Appendix Finishing Terms and Definitions 253