西方时尚理论注释读本PDF电子书下载

第一部分 时尚·语言·符号 3

WRITTEN CLOTHING&Roland Barthes 3

THE FASHION SYSTEM&Grant Mccracken 8

FASHION HAS ITS LAWS&Agnes Brooks Young 14

DO CLOTHES SPEAK？ WHAT MAKES THEM FASHION？&Fred Davis 26

第二部分 时尚·心理·动机 41

ANTIFASHION：THE VICISSITUDES OF NEGATION&Fred Davis 41

THE SPECIAL HISTORIC AND PSYCHOLOGICAL ROLE OF TIGHT-LACING&David Kunzle 58

SHOPPING ADDICTION：IS SHOPPING COSTING MORE THAN MONEY？&Marilyn Clark And Kirsten Salerno 78

第三部分 时尚·身体·性别 89

SUPERMODELS AND SUPER BODIES&Jennifer Craik 89

THE DRESSED BODY&Joanne Entwistle 97

FASHIONING THE BODY TODAY&Susan J.Vincent 116

FEMINISM AND FASHION&Elizabeth Wilson 124

GENDERING FASHION，FASHIONING GENDER：BEYOND BINARIES&Susan B.Kaiser 140

第四部分 时尚·身份·文化 161

THE POWER OF FASHION&Kurt Lang and Gladys Engel Lang 161

FASHION：FROM CLASS DIFFERENTIATION TO COLLECTIVE SELECTION&Herbert Blamer 168

SUBCULTURE：THE UNNATURAL BREAK&Dick Hebdige 187

“POWER DRESSING” AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE CAREER WOMAN&Joanne Entwistle 197

第五部分 时尚·现代·后现代 215

FASHION，OR THE ENCHANTING SPECTACLE OF THE CODE&Jean Baudrillard 215

MODERNISM AND FASHION：A PSYCHOLOGICAL INTERPRETATION&Kurt W.Back 231

DECONSTRUCTION FASHION：THE MAKING OF UNFINISHED，DEC-&OMPOSING AND RE-ASSEMBLED CLOTHES&Alison Gill 244

FASHION AT THE EDGE&Caroline Evans 269

第六部分 时尚·艺术·影像 283

ART AND FASHION&Michael Boodro 283

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY&Roland Barthes 292

ON THE MARKED CHANGE IN FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY&Olivier Zahm 296

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY：THE DOUBLE-PAGE SPREAD：HELMUT NEWTON，GUY BOURDIN＆DEBORAH TURBEVILLE&Rosetta Brookes 307

第七部分 时尚·媒介·传播 319

WHAT HAPPENED TO FASHION？&Teri Agins 319

FASHION STATEMENTS：COMMUNICATION AND CULTURE&Malcolm Barnard 328

FASHION ON THE PAGE&Christopher Breward 341

第八部分 时尚·生产·消费 351

FASHION：UNPACKING A CULTURAL PRODUCTION&Peter Braham 351

CONSUMING OR LIVING WTH THINGS？/WEARING IT OUT&Tim Dant 368

NOT ONLY NIKE’S DOING IT： “SWEATING” AND THE CONTEMPORARY LABOR MARKET&Richard Mclntyre and Yngve Ramstad 383

推荐阅读 393