针织学 第3版PDF电子书下载

Chapter 1 General terms and principles of knitting technology 针织基本术语和基本原理 1

1.1 Machine knitting 机器针织 1

1.2 The knitted loop structure 针织线圈结构 1

1.3 A course 线圈横列 1

1.4 A wale 线圈纵行 2

1.5 Stitch density 线圈密度 2

1.6 The main features of the knitting machine 针织机的主要特征 3

1.7 The needle 织针 3

1.8 Fabric draw-off 织物牵拉 4

1.9 The basic knitting action of a needle 织针的基本成圈过程 4

1.10 The bearded needle 钩针 5

1.11 The latch needle 舌针 6

1.12 The bi-partite compound needle 两部分组成的复合针 10

1.13 A comparison of latch and compound needles 舌针和复合针的比较 11

1.14 Machine gauge 机号 12

Chapter 2 Basic mechanical principles of knitting technology 针织的基本机械原理 14

2.1 The sinker 沉降片 14

2.2 The iack 底脚片，挺针片 16

2.3 Cams 三角，凸轮 16

2.4 The three methods of forming yarn into needle loops 三种成圈方法 19

Chapter 3 Elements of knitted loop structure 针织线圈结构 20

3.1 The needle loop 圈干 20

3.2 The sinker loop 沉降弧 21

3.3 Warp knitted laps 经编线圈 21

3.4 The overlap 针前垫纱 22

3.5 The underlap 针背垫纱 22

3.6 The closed lap 闭口线圈 23

3.7 The open lap 开口线圈 23

3.8 Wrapping 经纱提花 23

3.9 The knitted stitch 针织线圈 24

3.10 The face loop stitch 正面线圈 24

3.11 The reverse loop stitch 反面线圈 24

3.12 Single-faced structures 单面织物 25

3.13 Double-faced structures 双面织物 25

3.14 Selvedged fabric 光边织物 26

3.15 Cut edge fabric 开幅织物 26

3.16 Tubular fabric 筒状织物 26

3.17 Upright loop structures 线圈直立结构 26

3.18 Knitting notations 针织表示法 27

Chapter 4 The four primary base weft knitted structures 四种纬编基本组织 28

4.1 Introduction 引言 28

4.2 Plain structure 纬平针组织 29

4.3 Rib structure 罗纹组织 34

4.4 Interlock structure 双罗纹（棉毛）组织 39

4.5 Purl structure 双反面组织 43

Chapter 5 Stitches produced by varying the sequence of the needle loop intermeshing 通过变换线圈串套的次序形成的针织结构 49

5.1 Knitted stitches 成圈线圈 49

5.2 The held loop 握持线圈 49

5.3 The drop or press-off stitch 脱套结构 50

5.4 The float stitch 提花组织，浮线组织 51

5.5 Float plating 浮线添纱，架空添纱 52

5.6 The tuck stitch 集圈组织 53

Chapter 6 Coloured stitch designs in weft knitting 纬编色织花色织物 58

6.1 Horizontal striping 横条 59

6.2 Intarsia 嵌花 60

6.3 Plating 添纱 62

6.4 Individual stitch selection 单针选针 63

6.5 Jacquard design areas 提花花纹范围 68

6.6 Worked example 设计实例 68

Chapter 7 Pattern and selection devices 提花选针机构 73

7.1 Weft knitted patterns 纬编花色织物 73

7.2 Different lengths of butt 不同针踵长度 73

7.3 Different butt positions 不同针踵位置 75

7.4 Multi-step butt set-outs 多级选针齿配置 76

7.5 Selection devices 选针装置 76

7.6 Element selection 选针 76

7.7 Selection area arrangement 选针区域配置 78

7.8 Full jacquard mechanical needle selection 满针提花机械选针 81

7.9 Multi-step geometric needle selection 多级选针片选针 81

7.10 Needle selection by disc 圆齿片选针 83

7.11 The pattern wheel 提花轮 84

7.12 Pattern wheel design areas 提花轮花纹范围 86

7.13 Electronic needle selection 电子选针 88

Chapter 8 Electronics in knitting 针织中的电子技术 91

8.1 The disadvantages of mechanical control 机械控制的不足之处 91

8.2 The disadvantages of mechanical programming 机械程序设计的不足之处 91

8.3 The advantages of electronic control and programming 电子控制和编程的优点 91

8.4 The compatibility of electronic signals and knitting data 电子信号与针织数据的兼容性 92

8.5 Microprocessors and computers 微处理器和计算机 93

8.6 The computerised knitting machine 电脑针织机 93

8.7 Computer graphics and pattern preparation 计算机花型准备 94

8.8 The Stoll CAD pattern preparation system 斯托尔计算机辅助花型准备系统 97

8.9 The Shima total design system 岛精花型设计系统 101

Chapter 9 Circular fabric knitting 圆形纬编织物的编织 102

9.1 Weft knitted fabric production 纬编织物的生产 102

9.2 Single-and double-jersey compared 单双面针织物的比较 103

9.3 Simple tuck and float stitch single-jersey fabrics 带有集圈和浮线的单面织物 103

9.4 Non-jacquard double-jersey structures 非提花双面针织物 104

9.5 Double-jersey inlay 双面衬纬 109

9.6 The modern circular fabric knitting machine 现代圆机 111

9.7 Versatility and quick response 多功能和快速响应 113

9.8 The'contra'knitting technique 相对编织技术 114

9.9 Circular-machine production calculations 圆机生产计算 115

Chapter 10 Speciality fabrics and machines 特殊纬编织物和机器 117

10.1 The range of speciality fabrics 特殊织物的种类 117

10.2 The production of fleecy on sinker-top machines 衬垫组织在舌针圆机上的编织 118

10.3 Fleecy interlock 双罗纹衬垫 120

10.4 Plush 毛圈 120

10.5 The bearded needle sinkerwheel machine 吊机 121

10.6 Sinker plush knitted on single-jersey latch needle machines 毛圈织物在单面舌针机上的编织 121

10.7 Full-density patterned plush 高密度提花毛圈 122

10.8 Cut loop 割圈毛圈 123

10.9 Double-sided plush 双面毛圈 123

10.10 Sliver or high-pile knitting 长毛绒 123

10.11 Wrap patterning 经纱提花 124

Chapter 11 Loop transfer stitches 移圈组织 126

11.1 Uses of loop transfer 移圈的应用 126

11.2 The four main types of transfer stitches 四种主要的移圈组织 126

Chapter 12 Welts,garment sequences and knitting to shape 关边、计件和成形 133

12.1 The welt 关边 133

12.2 Rib welts 罗纹关边 135

12.3 Separation 分离横列 136

12.4 Imparting shape during knitting 编织成形 137

12.5 Integral garment knitting 整体编织 145

Chapter 13 Flat knitting,basic principles and structures 横编，基本原理和结构 146

13.1 History 发展历史 146

13.2 The two types of flat machine 两种横机 146

13.3 Flat machine gauges 横机机号 147

13.4 Conversion from Cottons Patent to V-bed gauge 柯登机和横机机号的换算 147

13.5 Knitting widths 编织宽度 147

13.6 Yarn counts 纱支 148

13.7 Simple hand-manipulated V-bed rib flat machines 简单手动横机 148

13.8 Stitch cam settings 弯纱三角调节 152

13.9 Spring-loaded cams 弹簧支撑三角 152

13.10 Two or more cam systems 两个以上的三角系统 153

13.11 Split cam-carriages 双三角座 153

13.12 Direct and indirect yarn feed 直接和间接喂纱 153

13.13 Yarn carrier arrangement 导纱器配置 154

13.14 Typical structures knitted on flat machines 横机编织的典型织物 155

Chapter 14 Automatic power flat knitting 全自动横编 161

14.1 History 发展历史 161

14.2 The MacQueen concept 麦克奎因的设想 161

14.3 Power flat machines 自动横机 162

14.4 The versatility of V-bed power flat knitting V形床自动横机的多功能性 162

14.5 Electronic controls replace mechanical controls 电子控制取代机械控制 162

14.6 The garment sequence programme 衣片编织顺序控制程序 163

14.7 Mechanical jacquard selection 机械提花选针 163

14.8 The Shima Seiki electronic selection system 岛精电子选针系统 163

14.9 The take-down system 牵拉系统 167

14.10 The fixed-stroke carriage traverse 定动程机头行程 167

14.11 Meeting the requirements of a shaping machine 成形横机的要求 168

14.12 The multiple-gauge technique 多针距技术 171

14.13 The split stitch 分针移圈线圈 172

14.14 Multi-carriage flat machines 多机头横机 172

14.15 Seamless glove knitting 无缝手套机 173

14.16 The WholeGarment knitting technique 整体服装编织技术 174

14.17 The Shima model FIRST 岛精公司FIRST型横机 177

14.18 The Tsudakoma TFK machine 津田驹公司TFK型横机 178

Chapter 15 The manufacture of hosiery on small-diameter circular machines 在小筒径圆机上生产针织袜 180

15.1 Types of hosiery 针织袜的种类 180

15.2 Classes of hosiery machines 袜机的分类 181

15.3 Gauge 机号 182

15.4 The early development of ladies'fine-gauge hosiery machines 细针距袜机的早期发展 182

15.5 The advent of nylon 锦纶（尼龙）的出现 183

15.6 Trends in fine-gauge hosiery since 1956 1956年以来细针距袜的发展趋势 183

15.7 Ladder-resist structures 防脱散结构 185

15.8 The development of the double-cylinder machine 双针筒袜机的发展 186

15.9 Single-cylinder sock machines 单针筒袜机 186

15.10 Timing and control of mechanical changes on circular hosiery machines 圆袜机上机械式定时和控制机构 186

15.11 Adjustment of loop length 线圈长度的调节 188

15.12 The double-cylinder slider butt set-out 双针筒导针片踵的排列 188

15.13 Production of heels and toes 袜跟和袜头的编织 189

15.14 Automatic separation 自动单件落袜 190

15.15 Seamed toe closing 袜头的缝合 191

15.16 Automatic toe closing on the knitting machine 在针织机上袜头的自动缝合 191

15.17 Tights 连裤袜 194

15.18 The'seamless'bodywear garment machine 无缝适体服装针织机 197

Chapter 16 Aspects of knitting science 针织科学概况 199

16.1 Knitted loop-shape and loop-length control 针织线圈形态和长度的控制 199

16.2 Loop length 线圈长度 200

16.3 Warp let-off 经编送经 202

16.4 Weft knitted fabric relaxation and shrinkage 纬编针织物的松弛回缩 204

16.5 Knitted fabric geometry 针织物的几何形态 205

16.6 Tightness factor 紧密系数 206

16.7 Robbing back 回退 207

16.8 Needle bounce and high-speed knitting 织针回跳与高速编织 208

16.9 The Cadratex unit Cadratex 卷取装置 209

16.10 Positive needle control 积极式走针控制 209

Chapter 17 Basic warp knitting principles 经编的基本原理 211

17.1 Construction of warp knitted fabrics 经编织物结构 211

17.2 The warp beams 经轴 212

17.3 The guide bar 梳栉 212

17.4 The guides 导纱针 212

17.5 Single needle bar structures 单针床机构 213

17.6 The pattern mechanism 梳栉横移机构 214

17.7 The chain links 链条 214

17.8 The electronic guide bar control system 电子梳栉控制系统 216

17.9 The development of lapping diagrams and chain notations 垫纱运动图和垫纱数码记录法的发展 216

17.10 Single-or double-needle overlaps 一针距或两针距的针前垫纱 216

17.11 The five basic overlap/underlap variations 五类基本的针前／针背垫纱运动 218

17.12 The direction of lapping at successive courses 连续横列的垫纱运动方向 218

Chapter 18 Classes of warp knitting machines 经编机的分类 222

18.1 Characteristics of tricot and raschel machines 特里科经编机和拉舍尔经编机的特点 222

18.2 The tricot machine 特里科经编机 222

18.3 The raschel machine 拉舍尔经编机 225

18.4 The compound-needle warp knitting machine 复合针经编机 229

18.5 The crochet machine 钩编机 230

18.6 The Waltex machine 瓦尔特克斯管针经编机 235

18.7 Warping 整经 235

Chapter 19 Plain tricot structures knitted with two full set guide bars 满穿双梳平面特里科织物 237

19.1 Rules governing two guide bar structures 梳组织形成原则 237

19.2 Two bar tricot 双经平组织 240

19.3 Locknit 经平绒组织 241

19.4 Reverse locknit 经绒平组织 241

19.5 Sharkskin 经斜平组织（雪克斯金、鲨鱼皮） 241

19.6 Queenscord 经斜编链组织 241

19.7 Double atlas 双经缎组织 242

19.8 Satin 经平斜组织 243

19.9 Velour and velvet 丝绒和天鹅绒织物 243

19.10 Overfed pile structures 超喂毛圈组织 243

19.11 Typical run-in ratios for nylon yarns 锦纶织物的典型送经比 244

Chapter 20 Surface interest,relief and open-work structures 结构、凸纹及孔眼织物 245

20.1 Basic principles 基本原则 245

20.2 Miss-lapping 缺垫 246

20.3 Part-threaded guide bars 部分穿纱梳栉 246

Chapter 21 'Laying-in'and fall-plate 衬纬和压纱板 250

21.1 Laying-in and weft insertion 衬纬 250

21.2 General rules governing laying-in in warp knitting 形成经编衬纬的基本原则 251

21.3 Mesh structures 网眼织物 252

21.4 Fall-plate patterning 压纱板花形 252

21.5 Full-width weft insertion 全幅衬纬 255

21.6 Magazine weft insertion 复式衬纬 256

21.7 Cut presser and miss-press structures 花压板和缺压组织 257

21.8 Spot or knop effects 凸结效果 259

21.9 Terry by the press-off method 脱圈法生产的毛圈 260

Chapter 22 Multi guide bar machines and fabrics 多梳经编机及其织物 262

22.1 The development of raschel lace 拉舍尔花边的开发 262

22.2 The success of raschel lace 拉舍尔花边的成功之处 262

22.3 Pattern guide bars 花梳栉 263

22.4 Guide bar nesting 梳栉的集聚 264

22.5 Multi-bar tricot lace machines 多梳特里科花边机 264

22.6 Chain links and electronic control of shogging 链条控制和电子控制的梳栉横移 265

22.7 The summary drive 累加机构 266

22.8 Raschel mesh structures 拉舍尔网眼结构 266

22.9 Marquisette and voile 薄纱罗和巴里纱 269

22.10 Elasticised fabrics 弹性织物 270

22.11 Jacquard raschels 贾卡拉舍尔织物 272

22.12 The Mayer Jacquardtronic multi-bar lace raschels 迈耶电子式多梳拉舍尔花边机 273

Chapter 23 Double needle bar warp knitting machines 双针床经编机 277

23.1 Operating principles 操作原理 277

23.2 Double needle bar basic lapping principles 双针床基本垫纱原理 278

23.3 Using two fully-threaded guide bars 使用两把满穿梳栉 278

23.4 The simplex machine 辛普勒克斯经编机 279

23.5 The double needle bar raschel 双针床拉舍尔经编机 281

Chapter 24 Technical textiles 产业用纺织品 290

24.1 Markets for technical textiles 产业用纺织品的市场 290

24.2 The properties of warp knitted structures 经编织物的性能 290

24.3 End-uses for technical textiles 产业用纺织品的用途 291

24.4 Geotextiles 土工布 292

24.5 Knitted wire 针织丝线 292

24.6 The advantages of warp knitted nets 经编网的优点 292

24.7 Composites 复合材料……- 294

24.8 Warp knitted multi-axial weft insertion fabrics 经编多轴向衬纬织物 294

24.9 Stitch bonding or web knitting 缝编 295

24.10 Spacer fabrics 间隔织物 296

24.11 Circular warp knitting 圆形经编 297

24.12 V-bed technical fabrics 横机生产的产业用织物 297

Appendix 附录 300

Glossary 词汇表 301